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All Listings filter applied. Buy It Now. Type see all Type. Chain The chain and guide bar oiler on your Stihl chainsaw is an essential component of the saw. Without it, heat and friction would quickly destroy both the bar and chain. It's simple to check whether or not the oiler works properly: Hold the chainsaw over a flat surface, such as a tree stump, engage the throttle and look for oil drops coming from the spinning chain.
The absence of these drops may mean that the oil port is blocked. Clearing a blocked oil port isn't difficult. The oil pump may be malfunctioning, though, and that requires some disassembling the engine. Disconnect the Stihl chainsaw's spark plug boot from the spark plug to begin the process of cleaning the oil ports. Remove the chainsaw's guide bar and chain shroud by unscrewing the two nuts that hold it in place, using a socket wrench or the multipurpose tool that came with the saw for the task.
Remove the guide bar and chain, and take the chain off the bar.Stihl Ms291 doesn't seem to be oiling the bar and chain
Wipe oil and sawdust from the bar, including from the groove in the bar's rim, by using a rag. Clean the oil feed hole on the bar by poking gauge wire through it. Poke the wire into the oil outlet port on the body of the saw to remove sawdust and dirt that may block it.
Look for the oil relief valve in the side of the engine housing, between the oil outlet port and the guide bar studs. Push against the valve with the gauge wire. A little oil should seep from the valve unless the valve is blocked or stuck. Pushing the valve once should free it, allowing oil to seep. The valve is designed to open when the saw engine starts to allow oil to come out. Reassemble the guide bar and chain onto the chainsaw. Reconnect the spark plug boot to the spark plug, and test the saw by operating it and checking for oil spray from the bar.
If still no oil appears when you engage the throttle and you're sure oil is in the tank, then the worm drive on the oil pump may be worn and in need of replacement. Disconnect the spark plug boot from the spark plug, and pull the spark plug from its hole. Remove the lug nuts holding the bar and chain shroud, using a socket wrench, and take off the shroud.
Remove the bar and chain. Remove the e-clip holding the sprocket to the engine shaft, using needle-nose pliers. Remove the washer and the chain sprocket. Unscrew the clutch nut, which has reverse threads, by turning it clockwise with a socket wrench. Pull the clutch off the engine shaft. Lift the worm gear and drive arm off the engine shaft.
The threads on the gear often wear out, preventing the oil pump from pumping. Replace the worm gear, which is a plastic part, with a new one, slipping the new worm gear and drive arm onto the engine shaft. Note the notch in the rim of the sprocket housing. Secure the chain sprocket in place so that the drive arm attached to the worm drive fits into the notch. Put the washer and e-clip back in place. Connect the guide bar and chain to the chainsaw.
Pull the nylon rope out of the spark plug hole. Put the spark plug in the spark plug hole, and connect the spark plug boot to the spark plug. Fill the oil tank. Start the chainsaw's engine, and test it by checking for oil spray while you engage the throttle.
If the oil pump still doesn't work, it's probably defective.Free shipping. Item Details:. Package Contents:. The real color of the item may be slightly different from the pictures shown on website caused by many factors such as brightness of your monitor and light brightness. Please allow slight manual measurement deviation for the data. We accept payment via Paypal only. Payment must be completed within 5 days.
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Add to Watchlist. People who viewed this item also viewed. Picture Information. Mouse over to Zoom - Click to enlarge. Have one to sell? Sell it yourself. Get the item you ordered or get your money back. Learn more - eBay Money Back Guarantee - opens in new window or tab. Seller information preferentialseller Contact seller. Visit store. See other items MoreThe power output is noticeably higher, despite the reduced weight, which will allow you to carry out the most demanding work with impressive ease.
The slimmed-down sprocket cover and bumper spikes allow better guidance of the chainsaw on the trunk. With an extra 0. Furthermore, the product range from STIHL includes everything you could need for demanding forestry work or grounds maintenance:. Highly versatile mid-range petrol chainsaw. Additional features include the new HD2 long life air filter system, anti-vibration technology and patented captive nuts on the chain sprocket cover.
This mid-range professional chainsaw is suitable for a wide variety of applications, from cutting firewood, to thinning work and felling medium sized stands. Great for working in lowdensity and medium-density stands. Standard-fitted with STIHL M-Tronic Mensuring optimum engine performance at all times, easy starting thanks to one start position and a new stop button function, long-life air filter system with HD2 filter requires only occasional cleaning, captive nuts on the sprocket cover.
Comfort version with carburettor heating V and electrically heated handles W. The usage Features Offer Downloads Authorised dealer search. Press Contact List. Full power right from the start With an extra 0.
The most important tool is the chainsaw Furthermore, the product range from STIHL includes everything you could need for demanding forestry work or grounds maintenance: Personal Protective Equipment Tools for cutting attachment maintenance Fuels, oils and accessories Hand tools and forestry accessoires. Quality in every sense of the word 1. Quality in every sense of the word 4. Quality in every sense of the word 7. Quality in every sense of the word 9.
Optimal engine performance 1. MS MSBar length 37cm. MSBar length 40cm.
stihl ms291 clutch cover new ms 291 chainsaw genuine stihl take off
More product details Authorised dealer search. MS C-MQ.
MS Standard model Highly versatile mid-range petrol chainsaw. A look at Mother Nature's wild side Download the new and exclusive wallpapers for your phone, tablet or PC.
Authorised dealer search. Working with the professionals every step of the way!How to replace a clutch: 1. Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain from the saw 2. Remove the top cover on the saw to expose the spark plug 3. Remove the spark plug 4.
Tuning and Repairs
Find the appropriate sized socket or specialty clutch removal tool to fit on the center of your clutch mechanism. Unscrew the clutch by turning to the right because clutches are left hand thread, that is most clutches, some old American made chainsaws are regular thread. The cord that is inside the cylinder should keep the piston from moving and allow you to apply plenty of torque to get the clutch off.
Assembly is the reverse of removal. If you have an old Jonsereds, some old McCullochs, some old Craftsmans and old saws with West Bend engines your flywheel is keyed onto the crankshaft. You can use the above procedure to remove the outer nut, but you will need to remove the clutch mechanism like you would remove a flywheel.
If you have a newer Stihl with an inboard clutch you need to remove the c-clip and clutch drum before using the above procedure to remove the clutch. Powered by Shopify and made by Reconfigure. Request Parts.
Stihl MS 291 burnt out after 1 hr
Cart 0. How to Replace a Chainsaw Clutch How to replace a clutch: 1. Accepted Payment.Forums New posts Search forums. What's new New posts New media New media comments Latest activity. Media New media New comments Search media. Log in Register.
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That will make a difference I'm the OP. I just bought a brand new in November and am completely happy with it.
It does everything I'll ever ask of a chain saw. I didn't even consider the probably because of the price. I was just curious about the differences between the 2 models. I'm glad I saved myself a hundred bucks. Stihlofadeal64 Addicted to ArboristSite.
Joined May 28, Messages 4, Location Rowan. I'm a fan of the Go get it and run the snot out of it. You'll like it. Get a 6 pack of Ultra and add 2 years to the warranty. They soon will be NLA so get em while you can.Forums New posts Search forums. What's new New posts New media New media comments Latest activity. Media New media New comments Search media.
Log in Register. Search titles only. Search Advanced search…. New posts. Search forums. Log in. Please be aware that we have recently gotten a wave of users that, when researched, are found to be from Nigeria. They are trying to sell products and asking to be paid through Zelle or Venmo leaving users with no recourse if they don't ship the product. If you suspect this activity please contact admin and we will research their information to verify their location.
Our AV crapped the bed after 30 years of dedicated service. My father bought a brand new MS to replace it. This thing was terrific for 1 hr of use, and then on the second outing, about a month ago,I was bucking up a fairly large spruce.
After I felled the tree, I worked the saw pretty stead for about 10 minutes limbing up and cutting the trunk into 16" lengths. I had the saw pretty well buried into the lower trunk when I start to see smoke coming out around the bar area.
This whole time the chain had been moving, the brake was off and there were no signs of any problems. First I check the bar oil check and chain brake 0ff. The chain tension was just fine, but there is a lot of resistance when trying to rotate chain by hand.
So I rip into it and find a bunch of burnt up plastic around the sprocket area. It goes without saying that there was OEM Stihl two stroke properly mixed in the gas. I mean this is a brand new saw. So I send it over to my dealer who we originally purchased it from and wait. A month later they come back and say Stihl won't cover the repairs. Stihl claims that I was overreving the saw with the chain brake engaged.
Are you kidding me? I've been running Stihl saws since I was 12 and there is no way this is the case. Parts that would need replacing are the chain sprocket, needle cage, worm gear, oil pump, engine housing, various oil seals, the brake band and the clutch. Stihl just doesn't make 'em like they used to I ran an and a 's farm boss for many years without incident and I feel that they obviously don't care about retaining customers after this experience.
How to Unstop the Oiler on a Stihl Chainsaw
I'd love to hear others' theories on what might have happened, because Stihl's version is not what happened. I am going to call Stihl directly on Monday and try to work this out because I think there was some sort of internal failure that caused this overheat.
I will post updates if there is anything to update.